Orchids are among the most popular houseplants in the UK, and also among the most often lost to the wrong pot. The moth orchid sold in supermarkets and garden centres, Phalaenopsis, does not grow in soil in the wild: it clings to tree bark, with its roots in the air. That changes everything about the pot it needs.
This guide explains what makes a good orchid pot, the difference between the inner pot and the decorative pot around it, which sizes and materials work, how to water without drowning the roots, and when and how to repot. The advice applies to the common moth orchid; other orchids follow similar principles.
The short answer: two pots, not one
The simplest and most reliable set-up is a clear plastic growing pot with drainage holes, placed inside a decorative ceramic or glass pot, often called a cachepot or outer pot.
- The inner pot holds the bark mix, lets water drain away and, being clear, lets light reach the roots, which on moth orchids can photosynthesise.
- The outer pot is what you see. It hides the plastic, keeps the plant stable and protects your furniture from drips.
The outer pot should be just slightly wider than the inner one, with a small gap for air, and either have its own drainage hole or be emptied after each watering.
What size pot does an orchid need?
Orchids like to be snug. A pot that is too big holds too much wet bark around the roots, which leads to rot. Most supermarket moth orchids are sold in 12 cm pots, and that is usually the right size for the next year or two.
| Plant | Inner pot diameter | Outer pot opening | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mini moth orchid | 6–9 cm | 9–11 cm | Small bud-vase style pots work well |
| Standard moth orchid | 12 cm | 13–15 cm | The most common size |
| Large or multi-stem orchid | 14–15 cm | 16–18 cm | Choose a heavier outer pot for stability |
When you repot, go up by only 1 to 2 cm in diameter, and only if the roots really fill the pot.
Choosing the decorative outer pot
Ceramic
Glazed or matte ceramic is the classic choice: stable, easy to clean and available in every style. Look for one with a drainage hole, or be ready to tip out any water that collects at the bottom after watering.
Glass
A clear glass outer pot shows the roots and lets in even more light, which moth orchids appreciate. It also makes it easy to see when water has pooled at the bottom.
Woven and rattan
Baskets add warmth and texture. Use them with a saucer or a waterproof liner inside.
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Glazed Ceramic Succulent Pot
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Small Ceramic Pot with Drainage Hole
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Find more in our ceramic plant pots and indoor plant pots.
Drainage: the most important feature
Orchid roots need air as much as water. Water must drain away freely and never sit at the bottom of the pot. Whatever outer pot you choose:
- keep the inner pot raised slightly, on a few pebbles or a small spacer, if the outer pot has no hole;
- check the bottom of the outer pot 15 minutes after watering and pour away any water;
- never leave the orchid standing in water for hours.
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Wooden Plant Stand
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Bark, not soil
Ordinary potting compost stays too wet and too dense for epiphytic orchids. Use a specialist orchid mix based on bark chunks, sometimes with a little perlite, charcoal or sphagnum moss. The coarse texture keeps air around the roots and lets water run through.
How and when to repot an orchid
- When: every one to two years, after flowering, or when the bark has broken down and smells musty.
- Remove the plant: gently squeeze the plastic pot and ease the orchid out.
- Clean the roots: shake off the old bark. Firm, silvery or green roots are healthy; soft, brown, hollow ones can be trimmed with clean scissors.
- Repot: place the orchid in a clean pot of the same or slightly larger size and fill around the roots with fresh bark mix, tapping the pot so it settles.
- Wait to water: leave it for a few days so any damaged roots can heal.
Where to place an orchid
Moth orchids like bright, indirect light: an east-facing windowsill is ideal, or a few steps back from a south or west window. Avoid direct midday sun, which scorches the leaves, and keep them away from radiators and cold draughts. A kitchen or bathroom with good light suits them well, thanks to the humidity.
A plant stand can lift an orchid closer to the window, and a hanging planter frees up the windowsill.
Watering and feeding through the year
Getting the water right matters as much as the pot. The aim is to let the roots almost dry out between waterings, then soak them thoroughly.
| Season | Watering | Feeding | What to watch |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | About once a week | Weak orchid feed every second watering | New leaves and roots appear |
| Summer | Once a week, sometimes more in hot weather | Weak feed every second watering | Too much direct sun on the windowsill |
| Autumn | Every 7 to 10 days | Reduce | A slight drop in night temperature helps new flower spikes |
| Winter | Every 10 to 14 days | Little or none | Cold windows and radiators |
The roots tell you when to water: silvery-grey means dry, bright green means the plant still has water. In a clear inner pot, this is easy to check at a glance.
Getting an orchid to flower again
Most moth orchids flower for two to three months, then rest. They can rebloom every year with a little care:
- When the last flower drops, cut the flower spike just above the second node below the old flowers, or at the base if it has turned brown.
- Keep the plant in bright, indirect light and continue watering as usual.
- In autumn, a few weeks of slightly cooler nights, around 15 to 18 °C, encourage a new spike.
- Do not move the plant once a new spike appears: the buds can drop with a sudden change of light or temperature.
Displaying orchids beautifully
The decorative pot is your chance to make an orchid part of the room. A single white orchid in a matte ceramic pot looks calm and elegant on a kitchen windowsill. Three mini orchids in matching small pots make a lovely line on a bathroom shelf. A taller orchid in a heavier pot can sit on a plant stand beside a window. Match the pot to the room: soft neutrals for calm spaces, glazed or hand-painted pots to add colour.
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Common mistakes
- A pot that is too big: extra wet bark leads to root rot.
- No drainage: water collecting at the bottom is the main cause of losses.
- Normal compost: always use orchid bark.
- Watering too often: once a week in summer and every ten to fourteen days in winter is usually enough; let the bark dry slightly between waterings.
- Cutting healthy aerial roots: roots that grow outside the pot are normal; leave them.
For more on pots and placement, see our plant pots collection.
Frequently asked questions
Do orchids need special pots?
Moth orchids do best in a clear plastic pot with drainage holes, placed inside a decorative ceramic or glass outer pot.
What size pot for an orchid?
Most moth orchids are happy in a 12 cm inner pot with an outer pot of 13 to 15 cm. When repotting, go up by only 1 to 2 cm.
Can I put an orchid in a pot without a drainage hole?
Only as an outer pot. Keep the orchid in its draining inner pot and empty any water that collects at the bottom after watering.
How often should I repot an orchid?
Every one to two years, after flowering, or when the bark has broken down.
